Master Level Tree Care in Sudbury/North Bay
Managing trees proactively is the safest and most cost-effective way to care for your landscape. Here are the answers to the questions we hear most often in the Sudbury and North Bay regions.
Decades of sulphur dioxide emissions have resulted in highly acidic soil, which can prevent nutrient absorption and increase the toxicity of metals like copper and nickel to plant roots. While most trees prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0), untreated Sudbury soil can have a severely low pH (3.5–4.5). This "sour" soil significantly hinders growth and is often lethal to young saplings. Greater Sudbury is located in Plant Hardiness Zone 4, which means trees must be able to withstand cold winters (reaching temperatures as low as -30°C to -35°C). The area is also famous for its regreening efforts, meaning many native species are specifically chosen for their ability to thrive in the local rocky or acidic soil.
The recommended solution, known as the "Sudbury Recipe," is to apply crushed limestone to raise the pH (making the soil more alkaline) before planting. Suitable deciduous species, including Red Maple (Acer rubrum), White Birch (Betula papyrifera), Red Oak (Quercus rubra), and their various cultivars, are excellent choices for these conditions. Always test your soils before choosing a species
Native coniferous trees, including White Pine (Pinus strobus), White Spruce (Picea glauca), Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea), and Eastern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis), are excellent selections for creating privacy screens and windbreaks. These species thrive in acidic soil and are available in numerous varieties and cultivars.
It's important to consider the specific location, intended use (such as shade, aesthetics, or fruit production), sunlight and water availability. Proper care and irrigation are essential for the success of trees in this challenging climate. Given the complexity of each location, we recommend requesting our services to help you select the right tree for your specific situation. We always aim to provide the best species selection that will minimize maintenance costs.
The optimal time to plant trees in this northern climate is during the spring or fall, as these seasons offer the best conditions for root establishment and growth. Here's a breakdown:
Pros: The soil is warming, and there’s ample moisture from snowmelt and spring rains, encouraging root development before the summer heat.
Considerations: Ensure consistent watering as summer approaches. Keep an eye on the weather and plant accordingly.
Pros: Cooler temperatures reduce stress on the tree, and the soil remains warm enough for root growth before winter. Fall planting allows trees to establish roots over winter, preparing them for growth in the spring.
Considerations: Plant early enough to allow roots to establish before the first hard frost.
By planting in spring or fall, you give your trees the best chance to adapt to their new environment and thrive in this challenging climate.
Caring for newly planted trees requires attention to their unique needs in this climate. Assuming the tree was properly planted at the correct depth and mulched to retain moisture. Here’s a step-by-step guide:
Frequency: Water deeply and slowly 2–3 times per week during the first growing season.
Amount: Use 10–15 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter.
Timing: Early morning or late evening is ideal to minimize evaporation.
Adjustment: Reduce frequency in the rainy season and as the tree establishes.
When Needed: Stake only if the tree is in a windy area or has a weak root ball.
Removal: Remove stakes after one growing season to avoid restricting growth.
It's generally best to work with the soil that is already on site. However, this can sometimes be challenging or impossible if construction fill has been used instead of actual soil. If you suspect that your property has poor soil quality, please request a consultation. I can visit your site to assess the situation and discuss a plan to address the issue. It's advisable not to plant trees in construction fill unless you're prepared to replace them in a few years or significantly increase your maintenance efforts.
If working with a new planting site, use nutrient-rich, well-draining soil to support healthy root development.
Timing: Prune only to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Avoid heavy pruning in the first year.
Purpose: Encourages healthy structure and airflow without stressing the tree.
From Heat: Consider using tree guards or shade cloth for young trees exposed to extreme sun.
From Wildlife: Install fencing or tree wraps to prevent damage from deer, rabbits, and other animals. This is a must in deer-prone areas, as they will kill your trees more quickly than any other pest.
If your new tree is mulched correctly and the soil has sufficient nutrients, you won't need to use fertilizer. High-nitrogen fertilizers have been known to increase the risk of pests and diseases, as they cause trees to focus more on growth and less on defence. Additionally, Insects are attracted to nitrogen, which acts like a dinner bell for them!
In most cases, avoid fertilizing in the first year unless the soil is severely nutrient-deficient, as it can stress the tree.
Regularly check for signs of stress such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or pests, and address any issues promptly. If you encounter a problem you cannot identify, please contact us, and we will come by to diagnose it.
With consistent care, newly planted trees can establish strong roots and adapt to this challenging climate, ensuring long-term health and growth and lowering future maintenance costs.
Even though our region is classified as a "humid" climate, don't let the name fool you—consistent watering is the single most important factor for a tree's survival in its first three years. While our air is often moist, Sudbury’s rocky ridges and North Bay’s sandy pockets can drain water away from roots faster than you'd expect. For newly planted trees, you should provide a deep soak of 20–30 litres of water twice a week during the growing season. Rather than a quick spray from a hose, use a slow-trickle method or a "TreeGator" bag at the drip line (the area directly under the outer branches) to ensure moisture reaches the deep feeder roots.
The most critical time to water in Northern Ontario is actually late autumn. Before the ground freezes in November, give your trees one final, massive "deep soak." This prevents "winter browning" in evergreens, as they cannot pull moisture from frozen soil during our long winters. If you have heavy clay soil, be careful not to overwater, as poor drainage can lead to root rot; always perform the "finger test" by checking the soil 3 inches deep—if it’s dry, it’s time to water!
Spruce Budworm is a common challenge for property owners in the Sudbury and North Bay areas, particularly affecting Balsam Fir and White Spruce. To protect your trees, the most effective defence is a biological insecticide called Btk(Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki), which is safe for birds and bees but lethal to the caterpillars. Timing is critical: apply Btk in late May or early June when the larvae are actively feeding on new needles. For smaller trees, you can also use a high-pressure garden hose to physically knock the larvae to the ground or manually remove the silken webbing from branch tips.
Long-term protection is all about reducing stress; a tree that is well-watered during our dry Northern summers is much more resilient to defoliation. If you notice the tops of your trees looking "scorched" or reddish-brown by July, it’s a sign of a heavy infestation, and you should plan for a treatment the following spring. To "future-proof" your landscape, we recommend diversifying your plantings with deciduous species or cedars to break up the budworm's preferred food source and create a more balanced local ecosystem.
Drought stress often wears a "disguise" in Northern Ontario, appearing as nutrient deficiencies or pest issues. The most common early warning sign is foliar wilting or "cupping," where leaves lose their crispness and begin to droop or curl inward to conserve moisture. In deciduous trees like Maples or Birches, look for marginal scorching—a browning or "burning" of the outer edges of the leaves while the center stays green. You might also notice premature fall color or early leaf drop in August; this is the tree’s way of "shutting down" early to survive the water shortage.
For evergreens like Pine and Spruce, drought stress is more subtle. Look for a dullness in needle colour (losing that vibrant blue or deep green) or increased needle drop from the interior of the tree toward the trunk. In severe cases, the new growth at the very top of the tree (the "leader") may wilt or turn brown. Because our shallow, rocky soils don't hold water well, you should always perform the "finger test"—if the soil is dry and hard three inches down, your tree is likely stressed, regardless of how humid the air feels!
Water Deeply: Apply water slowly and deeply to the root zone, reaching 12–18 inches deep.
Mulch: Add a 2–4 inch layer of mulch around the tree’s dripline but not up against the mainstem to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Reduce Competition: Remove competing plants, like turfgrass, near the tree’s base.
Prune Sparingly: Remove only dead or damaged branches to reduce stress.
Monitor Regularly: Check for ongoing signs of stress and adjust care as needed.
Choosing the right tree for your urban yard in the Sudbury or North Bay region requires careful consideration of factors that align with the region's humid climate and your yard's specific conditions. Here's a step-by-step guide:
Available Space: Measure the planting area to ensure the tree has enough soil and above-ground space to grow to its mature height and width. Remember, 80% of tree problems are in the ground.
Overhead and Underground Clearance: Check for utility lines, septic systems, or building foundations nearby.
Sunlight: Select a tree suited to the sunlight your yard receives (e.g., full sun or partial shade).
Soil Type: Test your soil’s drainage and pH. Sandy, loamy, or clay soils each require specific tree types. Perform a percolation test for drainage. Some soils can drain quickly, and some are prone to waterlogging, leading to root rot.
Water Availability: Opt for drought-tolerant species to reduce water needs once established.
Select trees that are pest- and disease-resistant, as well as those that require minimal pruning or cleanup. Ginkgo biloba is an amazing species, but be sure to select a male specimen. Females produce a fruit that rots and smells of rotting flesh!
Fast-Growing Trees: Ideal if you want quick shade or privacy, but beware! Fast-growing trees are more prone to failure and pests and disease, leading to more maintenance.
Long-Lived Trees: Provide value over decades (e.g., Bur Oak or Linden).
Choose trees that offer beauty year-round, such as vibrant fall foliage, spring blossoms, or textured bark in winter.
6. Research Local Regulations
Give us a call about Municipal bylaws or regulations.
Native species like White Pine (Pinus strobus), White Spruce (Picea glauca), Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea), and Eastern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) all thrive in this humid climate and require less maintenance.
Assess how much effort you’re willing to invest in pruning, watering, and cleaning up fallen leaves or fruit. Remember, the leaves of trees are nature's fertilizer and homes for beneficial insects that are helping you deal with pests on your property. Removing them on a yearly basis will degrade your soil and destroy insects' homes, leading to more maintenance. I know you are thinking insects are gross, but they are extremely important for biodiversity and the survival of our species!
Seek advice from Arbor Viridis, local nurseries, knowledgeable, passionate arborists, horticulturalists or extension services for tree recommendations tailored to your specific needs.
Pay attention to your gut; some nurseries and arborists will lead you down a path of destruction, leading to more maintenance in order to make more money from you in the future. It's a great business plan, but we all lose in the end!
Give Arbor Viridis Tree Care & Preservation a call, text or email; we will always choose to preserve nature.
By evaluating these factors, you can choose a tree that enhances your yard’s aesthetic, provides environmental benefits, and thrives in this humid urban landscape.
Proper tree pruning promotes healthy growth, improves structure, and enhances the tree’s aesthetics. Here’s a step-by-step guide for effective pruning:
Why Prune?
Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches.
Improve tree structure and aesthetics.
Enhance sunlight penetration and air circulation.
When to Prune:
Deciduous Trees: Late winter or early spring, before new growth begins, is typically best, but pruning throughout the summer has not been shown to cause any excessive stress unless more than 30% of the leaf-bearing canopy has been removed. Certain tree species, such as maples, can "bleed" sap from their wounds, but this is not a cause for concern because trees can compartmentalize decay. In nature, trees do not have a choice when they experience branch failures, which is why they have evolved mechanisms to cope with the damaging effects of such injuries.
Evergreens: Early spring or mid-summer, depending on the species. This is due to the effects pruning has on the regenerating the lost foliage before
Flowering Trees:
Spring bloomers: Prune after flowering. If you prune before flowering, you won't have any flowers. (e.g. Lilac)
Summer bloomers: Prune in late winter or early spring.
Hand Pruners: For small branches up to ¾ inch in diameter.
Loppers: For branches ¾ to 1½ inches in diameter.
Pruning Saw: For branches larger than 1½ inches.
Pole Pruner: For high branches.
Sharp and Clean Tools: Ensure tools are sharp to make clean cuts and disinfect them between trees to prevent the spreading of disease.
Start with Dead, Diseased, and Damaged Wood:
Remove branches that show signs of decay, insect damage, or broken limbs.
Cut Outside the Branch Collar:
Make cuts just outside the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk (the branch collar).
Avoid cutting flush with the trunk to prevent harm to the tree. Flush cuts are one of the worst things that can be done to a tree!
Use the 3-cut Method for Large Branches:
First Cut: Make a small cut on the underside of the branch, 6–12 inches away from the trunk, to prevent tearing.
Second Cut: Saw through the branch from the top, a few inches farther out than the first cut.
Final Cut: Remove the remaining stub just outside the branch collar.
Shape the Tree:
Maintain the tree’s natural shape while removing excess growth.
Do not reduce the tops, which can cause stress and lead to weak, poorly attached regrowth.
Over-Pruning: Excessive removal can stress the tree and reduce its vigour. Avoid removing more than 25% of the canopy in one season. Your tree will reward you with fewer pests and diseases, resulting in less maintenance.
Flush Cuts: Cutting too close to the trunk damages the tree’s ability to heal.
Stub Cuts: Leaving a branch stub can attract decay and pests, prolonging the decay process and potentially leading to decay columns and structural failure. Additionally, a stub can cause the branch to regrow multiple shoots that will eventually need to be removed. Some arborists may intentionally leave stubs to create a scenario where they are hired again in the future to prune the same branch, thereby increasing their income.
Topping: Never cut the main leader (top vertical branch), as it disrupts growth and structure. This is often done to trees because people fear tree height and potential failure. However, this practice can lead to multiple competing tops, each weakly attached, which increases the risk of failure. Remember, the right tree, the right place! If topping is the only option, removing and planting a better suitable species is best. This will save you time, frustration and money.
Focus on developing a strong central leader and evenly spaced scaffold branches while the tree is young and growing vigorously.
Remove competing leaders or branches with narrow crotch angles. V-shaped unions are weak and U-shaped unions are great
Watering: Keep the tree hydrated, especially in dry conditions.
Mulching: Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and protect roots.
Inspection: Monitor the tree for signs of stress or disease after pruning.
Following these steps ensures your tree remains healthy, structurally sound, and beautiful for years.
Dealing with invasive tree species in your area requires a proactive approach to identification, removal, and prevention to protect native ecosystems. Here's how to manage invasive trees effectively:
Research invasive species common in your region.
In Northern Ontario and most of Canada, examples include:
Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima): Rapid growth and allelopathic properties inhibit other plants.
Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia): Aggressive spread in riparian areas.
Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila) - Aggressive spread, rapid growth, very prolific seeds with high success rates.
Manitoba Maple (Acer negundo) - Outcompetes native species like Speckled Alder along riverbanks; extremely hardy.
European Black Alder (Alnus glutinosa): Increasingly found along northern waterways. It is more aggressive than the native Speckled Alder and can alter the hydrology of wetlands.
Determine the size and age of the invasive trees.
Identify their impact on native vegetation and wildlife.
Map out the affected areas for better planning.
Mechanical Removal:
Hand-pull seedlings or saplings before they are established.
Use saws or machinery to cut down larger trees.
Ensure the complete removal of roots to prevent regrowth. This can be very costly due to root spread and the time it takes to eliminate them.
Chemical Control:
Apply herbicides to freshly cut stumps to inhibit regrowth.
Use targeted treatments to minimize harm to native plants.
Follow local regulations and safety guidelines for herbicide use.
Do not compost invasive tree materials, as seeds or roots may survive.
Burn or dispose of debris in accordance with local regulations.
Replant with native or non-invasive species to fill the gaps left by removal and prevent re-invasion.
Regularly inspect the area for signs of regrowth or new invasions.
Remove any new seedlings promptly.
Encourage healthy growth of native vegetation to suppress invasives.
Educate neighbours and local groups about invasive species and their impacts. Trees don't understand fence line boundaries. If your neighbours aren't controlling their invasive trees, it may be impossible to control yours.
Organize community removal events to address widespread infestations.
Seek advice from local conservation authorities, arborists, or invasive species councils.
Avoid planting known invasive species in your yard.
Clean equipment and shoes after working in infested areas to prevent seed spread.
Use certified weed-free soil, mulch, or compost in your garden.
By taking these steps, you can effectively control invasive tree species, protect native ecosystems, and promote biodiversity in your area.
You've already found us! If you decide to work with another company, please check their credentials and insurance. It's also important to have a conversation with your arborist to see if their passion for trees meets your expectations. Ask them if they practice tree topping. If they say yes, consider hiring a different company.
Leaving large Wildlife stems can sometimes be justified to promote biodiversity, but such situations are rare. They typically occur in riparian areas or with larger trees that could house nesting owls and birds. Unfortunately, we are witnessing a concerning decline in large trees worldwide due to an unjustified fear of their potential to fail.
If you have any questions or concerns about your trees, please feel free to contact us. We would be happy to help alleviate any fears you may have regarding your trees.
Biochar is a specialized, high-carbon charcoal created through a process called pyrolysis—heating organic matter (like wood or crop waste) in an oxygen-free environment. Unlike regular charcoal, biochar is designed specifically for soil enhancement and carbon sequestration.
No. Ash is mostly minerals and can drastically spike soil pH, while charcoal from a grill often contains chemical additives. Biochar is produced at precise temperatures to maximize its "internal surface area," creating millions of microscopic pores that act as a permanent habitat for beneficial microbes.
Biochar acts like a subterranean sponge. It can hold up to several times its weight in water. During dry spells in Northern Ontario, biochar-rich soil retains moisture longer, reducing drought stress and the frequency of supplemental watering.
Highly. Biochar is a "carbon negative" technology. The carbon contained in the biochar is locked away from the atmosphere for hundreds of years. By adding biochar to your property, you are actively participating in carbon sequestration while improving your local ecosystem.
If I hang a hat on a lower branch when the tree is young, the hat will be much higher in the tree in 10 years?
Reality: Trees grow from the tips out, not from the ground up. The hat will be in the same spot, but the branch may have grown into it.
Trees set buds in the spring?
Reality: Trees develop buds at the end of summer when they have accumulated plenty of energy from the sun. Fall is an ideal time to spot these tree buds, as the leaves begin to drop. The buds remain dormant during winter, patiently awaiting the warm days of spring to grow and eventually transform into leaves and flowers.
Trees Grow Continuously Throughout Their Lives?
Reality: Trees have a maximum size they can reach based on their species, genetics, and environmental conditions. Once they reach maturity, their growth slows significantly, particularly in height, though they may continue to increase in girth (trunk diameter).
Trees need to be painted when we create wounds on them, similar to how a bandage works?
Reality: Trees have developed a natural mechanism for sealing off wounds known as compartmentalization. This process allows them to isolate the damaged area and gradually grow new wood and bark over time. Using wound paints can have several adverse effects:
Trap moisture and pathogens: Wound paints create a moist environment, promoting decay and encouraging fungal growth.
Prevent natural sealing: These products can interfere with the tree's ability to form protective callus tissue.
Provide minimal pest deterrence: Although some wound paint products claim to repel pests, they are often ineffective for long-term protection.
Watering your trees at the main stem?
Reality: Watering your established trees at the main stem causes the water to accumulate and may lead to root rot and/or pests and disease. There are very few absorbing roots located at the main stem.
Tree Roots Grow Deep into the Ground?
Reality: Most tree roots grow in the top 12-18 inches of soil because that’s where oxygen, water, and nutrients are most abundant. Only a few tree species develop deep taproots.
Tree roots are a mirror of the canopy?
Reality: Most of the tree's root zone is within the dripline of the tree but can be imagined like a Wine glass.
Trees love soil and can be planted deep to increase drought resistance?
Reality: Planting trees too deeply can suffocate the roots and cause various problems. Always ensure that the root flare is above the soil grade.
Trees bought from the nursery are planted at the right depth?
Reality: Trees from the nursery are almost always planted too deep and should not be planted at the same depth. Always remove excess soil to the highest structural root before planting.
Pruning Trees Doesn't Harm Them?
Reality: Improper pruning can harm trees, making them more susceptible to disease, pests, and structural weakness. Correct pruning techniques and timing are essential for tree health.
All Trees Are Strong and Resilient?
Reality: Some trees are fragile and prone to damage from wind, pests, or disease. Additionally, urban trees face challenges such as compacted soil, pollution, and limited root space, which can weaken them.
You Can Plant a Tree and Forget About It?
Reality: Young trees require care, including watering, mulching, and protection from pests and diseases, to establish themselves. Neglect during the first few years can lead to failure.
Planting Bigger Trees is Always Better (Instant Landscapes)?
Reality: Larger trees can be harder to transplant successfully because of their extensive root systems. Smaller trees often establish and grow faster in the long run after planting. Instant landscapes don't work. Save yourself some money, plant a smaller tree, and watch it grow.
Trees Live Forever if healthy?
Reality: Trees have a finite lifespan, varying by species and growing conditions. Some species may live for centuries, while others naturally live only a few decades.
Cutting Down a Tree Kills It Completely?
Reality: Many trees can regenerate from their stumps or roots, particularly certain species like willow and elms, unless the stump and root system are entirely removed or treated.
Topping a tree makes it smaller and easier to deal with?
Topping is often done by homeowners or uneducated arborists who fear a tree has grown "too big." However, it actually makes the tree more dangerous in the long run.
Can we pollard my tree, its too tall?
The short answer, and I’ll be as gentle as a falling leaf here, is no. If your tree is already "too tall," it is likely too mature to start a pollarding cycle. Trying to pollard a mature tree is effectively just topping it under a different name, and it will likely lead to the tree’s decline or death.
Pollarding is a preventative measure, not a corrective one.
True Pollarding: Starts when the tree is a sapling or a very young juvenile. The cuts are made on small, flexible branches that heal instantly.
Late Pollarding: If you cut into thick, mature "heartwood" (anything larger than about 5-8cm in diameter), the tree cannot easily seal the wound. This leads to internal rot.
